Duration: 1m45s

"Gauloises - eager to please." - Whoo! - Yes! "10 years ago, I had the good fortune to dine "at Chef Casper's revelatory Miami bistro, Marrow." - Miami in the house! - Marrow, baby! That's your house! "The sheer audacity of this fresh, brave voice of the culinary scene "reminded me why I write about food as a vocation." - Yeah! - That's a lot of pressure. "It is nearly impossible to separate my glowing regard for Chef Casper "and how much he inspired me from my expectations as I sat down to dine "at the recently remodelled Brentwood Gallic staple, Gauloises." - Yeah, this is good! - "Oh, how times have changed. "Over the last decade, Carl Casper has somehow managed to transform himself "from the edgiest chef in Miami "to the needy aunt that gives you $5 every time you see her "in hopes that you will like her, "but instead causes you to shrink from her cloying embrace "which threatens to smother you in her saggy, moist cleavage. "The signature app, "intended to impress the country club brunch crowd, "is the caviar egg. "A shirred egg topped with a dollop of caviar "is an excuse for the chef to overcharge us "for his insecurity and lack of imagination. "Carl Casper can best be summed up by the first bite of his needy "and yet by some miracle also irrelevant "chocolate lava cake. "Casper didn't even have the courage to undercook the cake, "thus curiously lacking its signature molten centre." "This sad dessert is emblematic "of Carl Casper's disappointing new chapter. "His dramatic... weight gain can only be explained "by the fact that he must be eating "all the food sent back to the kitchen." Two stars.